Guernsey and Jersey, Bikepacking trip
A Van, VE Day & Vistas: A Channel Islands Adventure
There’s something about piling into a van with your mates, a stack of bikes, and just enough kit to get by that screams freedom. This time, the destination wasn’t our usual wild trails or remote Scottish bothies — we were heading south, way south. From Halifax to Poole, with Saul and Tom, the van humming with a pre-adventure buzz.
The Channel Islands: Small in Size, Massive in History
Before we get into coffee and coastlines, it’s worth touching on why these two small islands — Guernsey and Jersey — pack such a punch. Occupied by Nazi Germany during World War II, they’re the only parts of the British Isles that saw German boots on the ground. What’s left behind is a surreal mix of holiday charm and wartime ghosts: tunnels, towers, bunkers, and memorials stitched into otherwise sleepy landscapes.
Stop 1: Guernsey — Grit and Greenery
We rolled off the ferry into Guernsey and set up camp for two nights. First impressions? Green, rugged, and weirdly cinematic. The timing was wild too — we’d landed bang on VE Day, and this year marked the 80th anniversary. The whole island had leaned into it. Streets were dotted with vintage war vehicles and re-enactors in full uniform. It felt like stepping into a time capsule, but with better coffee.
We hit the pedals hard — mountain bikes fully loaded and trails calling. The coastal roads were tight but scenic, with lookout towers popping up like reminders of what the island’s seen. We dipped into the underground German war tunnels — chilling, claustrophobic, and unforgettable.
Evenings were quiet. Just three mates, a battered camping stove, and the kind of sky you only get when you’re miles away from the mainland.
Stop 2: Jersey — Big Views, Bigger Vibes
After a quick ferry hop, we landed on Jersey and pitched up for four nights at a beachside campsite. This island had a slightly different feel — more developed, but still packed with history. We cycled coast to coast, along cliff paths which were definitely a highlight, looping around lookout towers, cliff-top bunkers, and hidden war tunnels. There’s something strange about riding past the lovely white sandy beaches, then dipping into an underground network built for survival.
We spent time exploring spots like St. Aubin, with its laid-back harbour charm and perfect coffee stops, and St. Helier, where old meets new in a mix of war stories and modern life. One of the highlights was Gorey — a picture-perfect little town crowned by Mont Orgueil Castle.
The weather? Blue skies all the way. Dry and perfect for both riding and lazing by the sea. We refuelled at quiet beach cafés, sipping some genuinely good coffee (seriously, unexpected highlight), and watching the waves roll in.
Six Days, Two Islands, Countless Stories
In just under a week, we’d crossed two islands, ridden miles of coast, eaten plenty of nice food and pastries, and soaked up more wartime history than any of us expected. The Channel Islands are full of contrast — peaceful yet haunted, wild yet curated.
I would highly recommend a short visit to the islands to enjoy the peaceful surroundings.
Bike: Van Nicholas
Miles: 215 miles
Elevation: 11,000 feet
Kit: Short and T shirts, Sleeping Bag and Tent.
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